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When a computer has no sound, the cause is usually audio going to the wrong output, such as an HDMI monitor, dock, headset, or Bluetooth device, a muted control, or one app's own audio state; cables, drivers, and hardware faults are less common. Turn the volume down before switching devices, then test a known local sound through the built-in speakers. This separates a simple routing mistake from an app, cable, Bluetooth, driver, or hardware problem.
Stop immediately if a connector is damaged, liquid entered the computer, or you notice sparking or a burning smell. Do not keep reconnecting suspect powered speakers, docks, or adapters.
Key Takeaways
- Test one known local sound so a network or streaming failure does not look like an audio failure.
- Compare one app with the whole system, then built-in speakers with one external output.
- Lower the volume before changing outputs because the next device may be much louder.
- Check the physical path and selected output before reinstalling software.
- Avoid generic driver-updater utilities and destructive audio-stack resets.
For a broader branching method, start with the device and app troubleshooting guide. If the problem is recording rather than playback, use the dedicated microphone signal-path guide.
Use a short, non-sensitive audio file stored on the computer. Play it in the operating system's normal media app, then compare it with a system alert. A browser tab, game, meeting app, or streaming service can fail independently because it has its own mute, output, session, codec, or service state.
If the local file and system alert work, leave the system audio configuration alone. Check the affected app's volume, in-app output selection, muted tab or participant state, and whether the app needs to be reopened after an output change. A meeting app may continue using the headset selected when the call began even after the operating system changes its default.
If every app is silent, continue at the system layer. If only online media is silent, compare another local file and another site before treating it as a computer-wide audio fault. Do not raise every control to maximum; that creates a hearing risk when the correct path returns.
| Observation | Most useful next check |
|---|---|
| One app is silent | Its mute, mixer level, session output, and restart state |
| Browser media is silent | Tab/site mute, player level, and a local-file comparison |
| Built-in speakers work | External device, cable, port, power, or routing |
| Headphones work but speakers do not | Speaker output selection or internal hardware |
| No output works | System routing, audio service, supported update, or hardware |
Disconnect unnecessary audio accessories temporarily. HDMI monitors, USB docks, headsets, Bluetooth speakers, virtual audio devices, and remote-desktop sessions can all become the selected output. The device name may not describe the physical speaker clearly, so change one output at a time and test after each change.
Select the speaker icon, open the output list, and choose the intended device. Check the main volume and the Volume mixer because Windows can store a separate level or output for each app. Microsoft's checklist covers the selected output, mute state, default playback device, audio enhancements, and the Get Help audio troubleshooter before driver work.[1]
If an HDMI display is selected but has no speakers, choose the computer speakers instead. If the intended output is missing, reconnect it directly, avoiding a dock for the comparison. A supported Windows update or the computer manufacturer's audio package is safer than a generic driver updater.
Open System Settings, choose Sound, and inspect Output. Select the intended speakers, confirm Output volume is not muted, and check Balance. Apple also advises disconnecting external audio devices when testing the built-in speakers.[2]
Some displays and interfaces expose several similarly named outputs. Select one, keep the volume low, and play the same local test sound. If a managed Mac prevents changes or an output repeatedly disappears, preserve the exact device name and ask the administrator or hardware vendor.
On a Chromebook, open Quick Settings, expand the audio controls, and choose the intended output. Google documents separate volume and output controls, so a connected headset can keep receiving sound even when the visible volume is nonzero.[3]
On Ubuntu, open the sound panel, verify the output device and profile, and test the speakers there. Ubuntu's troubleshooting guide recommends checking volume, cables, the selected device, and recognized hardware before assuming a hardware failure.[4]
Trace the path from the computer to the sound-producing device. Powered speakers need power as well as an audio signal. A headset may have an inline mute or volume control. A 3.5 mm plug can feel inserted while still being short of the final contact, and a dock may carry video without carrying the expected audio path.
These two substitutions answer different questions. If the speakers fail on another source, the speaker path is suspect. If known-good headphones also fail on the computer, the computer path is more likely. Do not force a plug into a port or use an adapter whose wiring and compatibility are unknown.
For USB devices that never appear, follow the USB recognition checklist. For an HDMI display that is also missing as a display, use the external monitor detection guide.
Bluetooth audio can be paired yet connected to another phone or computer. Confirm which host currently owns the connection, then select the Bluetooth device as the audio output. If it is not connecting at all, move to the Bluetooth headphone connection checklist rather than repeatedly deleting system audio state.
HDMI and USB-C docks combine several independent paths. A monitor may display video while audio is routed to its headphone jack, internal speakers, or no speaker hardware at all. Check the monitor's own volume and output menu, then compare a direct computer connection with the docked path.
If sound exists but is delayed, the routing path is working; use the separate Bluetooth audio-delay guide. This article does not cover distortion, crackling, one silent earbud, microphone input, or streaming video that shows a picture problem.
If sound worked a moment ago, look first at what changed just before it stopped. Plugging in or unplugging a monitor, dock, or headset can switch the default output, and paired Bluetooth earbuds or speakers in range can reconnect and take over playback. Microsoft names a wrong output device, muted sound, audio enhancements, and a faulty driver as the usual causes of silent speakers.[1]
Undo the most recent change first: disconnect the new accessory or turn off its Bluetooth, select the built-in speakers again, and replay the same local test sound at low volume. If the silence began right after a system update, restart once and note the update name before changing drivers.
Reopen the affected app after selecting the correct output. If every app remains silent, restart the computer once with unnecessary audio accessories disconnected. This clears a stuck session without deleting device records or custom settings.
Install supported operating-system updates and, when the device manufacturer provides one, the audio driver or firmware intended for the exact model. Do not install a bulk driver-updater utility, delete audio devices repeatedly, or run commands that remove the entire audio configuration without a recovery plan.
Escalate when the built-in output is absent after a supported restart and update, known-good direct outputs also fail, the audio device repeatedly disappears, or there is physical damage. Record the computer model, operating-system version, output name, direct-versus-dock result, and whether the failure began after an update, impact, or liquid exposure.
The level can be nonzero while sound is routed to HDMI, a dock, Bluetooth, a virtual device, or a different per-app output. Select the intended output and test a local sound at low volume.
The silent app may have its own mute, mixer level, output selection, or stuck audio session. Check the app controls and reopen it before changing system-wide settings.
HDMI can become the default audio output. Select the computer speakers if the monitor has no speakers, or check the monitor's volume and audio-output controls.
No. First test app scope, routing, volume, cables, built-in speakers, and a direct known-good output. Use only the operating system or hardware manufacturer's supported driver when evidence points to that layer.
Yes. The device may be connected to another host or connected while a different output remains selected. Confirm the active host and selected audio output.
The selected output may still be the headphones, or the internal speaker path may have a software or hardware fault. Disconnect accessories, choose the built-in speakers, and test again at low volume.
Yes. Video, audio, charging, and USB functions can fail independently because they use different device capabilities and routes. Compare a direct connection and inspect the display's own audio capability.
Repair is more likely when known-good direct outputs and built-in speakers both fail after supported software checks, the device disappears repeatedly, or there is damaged hardware, liquid, sparking, or a burning smell.
Sources checked 4 October 2026.
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